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The original was posted on /r/japantravel by /u/Different_Horse6239 on 2024-05-28 00:13:49+00:00.

Before I start, here are the pictures -

(“Japan 2” because I took out group shots and condensed slightly from my private album)

I’ve respected the requests for no photos everywhere I’ve gone (and it happens a lot) so some things are missing from here - I’ve included a couple of links to sites with pictures of things I couldn’t photograph in my breakdown.

I’ve been wanting to try a solo trip for a little while and originally planned to do this all myself. In the end I chickened out and booked onto a group tour for some of it, but made sure I had a chunk of time on my own too. In the end I needn’t have worried about going alone - all the airport and hotel staff speak perfect English, restaurant/shop staff sometimes less so but it’s less important there, all navigation signs are translated to English (at least for the cities I visited), Google maps works great (when taking the metro make sure to check which exit it recommends), Google translate has a feature to use your camera and translate any text it sees which works very well most of the time (the tour company booked and collected my JR pass for me so I can’t comment on that, although I’m sure it would’ve also been fine) - although the group were all lovely and made the trip much more fun!

Food isn’t really a priority for me when travelling so I can’t tell you where I ate most of the time, often it was just the nearest ramen place with a not terrible score on Google. I did make sure to try all of the local stuff as I went (Kobe/Wagyu beef, curry, yakitori, kushikatsu, ramen, donburi, sushi, takoyaki, taiyaki, yakisoba, okonomiyaki, tonkatsu, shabu shabu, tempura, gyoza, souffle pancakes, dango).

Flight - opted to go direct as I’ve never done a transfer before, but could’ve saved a little bit of cash by stopping over in China for a few hours. The flight was at 9am (London Heathrow, British Airways, economy), 14 hours long and landed at 7am Japanese time (Haneda), so I decided to stay up through the night to make sure I definitely manage to fall asleep on the plane, which I of course did not.

Saturday 13th April - Tokyo Landed at 7am local time. From what I’ve read my experience is not the norm and you should plan to be there a while, but from the plane touching down, me getting through customs/passport control, exchanging some currency, buying a SIM and travel card through to stepping on the train… a little under an hour? Wont go into it too much but make sure you get a SIM and travel card at the airport, it’ll be a lot harder in the city. I got the “Welcome Suica” which is designed for tourists, there’s no fee to purchase the card but you can’t refund whatever’s left at the end - HOWEVER there’s a Seven-Eleven (corner shop type thing, they’re everywhere in Japan) at the airport (both before and after security) where you can pay with funds from your IC card, so you can make sure you don’t waste much (I had about 8 yen left on mine). Went to the hotel (one of the APA hotels in Shinjuku), too early to check in but dropped my bag off. First stop was the Ichiyo Sakura festival - a lot smaller than it is billed as online, I think it’s been scaled back a lot post-pandemic, there’s no longer a parade, just a little stage in a park with a few hundred attendees and a variety of performances of Japanese stuff - still quite cool, but I was sleep deprived and needed to keep moving so didn’t stay too long. I wanted to hunt for cherry blossoms as I knew it was almost the end of the season and they’d die off very quickly, and I’d also seen Tokyo Skytree in the distance, so those were my priorities, and I eventually found myself in Sumida Park. The pink blossoms were very wilted, but the white ones come out a bit later and were in full bloom. Had my first vending machine experience en-route (may sound like a dumb tourist for recommending a western brand but the grape fanta is amazing and I wish they would release it everywhere). Then it was time to check in to the hotel, intended to just have a nap but slept through til 5am.

Sunday 14th April - Tokyo Started at the Samurai Ninja museum. This is 100% tourist nonsense but well worth doing in my opinion, starts with a chance to dress up in samurai outfits (the website says something about the outfits not “looking good” on people over 5’9 but I’m 6’1 and I think it’s fine, would be more concerned about width than height) and take photos, then the guided tour (mandatory, included in the price, in English) which I thought was quite interesting (although I got all the same information again on the walking tours I did so not essential), then a chance to throw rubber shuriken (throwing stars) into a foam wall. Afterwards had a bit of free time so wandered in no particular direction, found my first temple - this was the only one I ended up doing that isn’t on all the tourist lists so while it wasn’t as spectacular as any of the others I did it was the only one that was actually quiet, so really glad I experienced it. Found my way to Senso-ji temple, but knew I was coming back here with the group so didn’t linger. Had some candied fruit on a stick on the way. In the afternoon I’d booked teamLab Borderless - you have to book this in advance and I’d highly recommend. I think it’s the sort of place you know whether you’ll enjoy it just from the pictures. You may have read that it’s busy and full of screaming kids, which was true of the big room in the middle but it’s easy to immerse yourself in the side rooms which have much better stuff in anyway. There’s another teamLab in Tokyo which is similar and I’m sure is also good, but I didn’t feel the need to do both. After, had dinner with someone from the group who also arrived early and then wandered around Shibuya for a bit - looked around a pachinko parlour but didn’t partake as they were closing in 30 minutes.

Monday 15th April - Tokyo There was a sumo exhibition fight at Yasukini shrine that I spent almost the whole day at! This is a free annual event. Afterwards, had a little walk round near the Imperial Palace (sadly the main gardens are closed on Mondays) then went to grab my suitcase and meet the tour group.

Tuesday 16th April - Kamakura Day trip to Kamakura. Started at Engaku-ji temple where I bought my Goshuincho (at most temples/shrines you can pay a small fee for someone to hand-write a prayer in calligraphy which is unique to that location called a Goshuin, and they’ll only do it in a specific type of book called a Goshuincho - it’s the last photo in my album). I found it very strange that they were building another building on the site, you’d never be allowed to mess with a historical site like that in England. Then the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu shrine. Struggling to come up with much to say about it but it was very pretty? And afterwards the great Buddha statue. We tried to watch the sunset on the beach but it was too cloudy, then headed back to Tokyo.

Wednesday 17th April - Kyoto Bullet train to Kyoto, dropped bags at hotel. Hired kimonos and wandered around the Gion district taking photos for a few hours, before we had booked a matcha tea ceremony (we were told not to worry about cultural appropriation, Japanese people think it’s funny seeing western people dressed in them, which did seem to be the case). After lunch we saw the Miyako Odori (each of the geisha districts in Kyoto performs a show/dance for the public once a year, this is the Gion show and is only on in April) - I obviously couldn’t take pictures, but there’s a snippet up here -

Thursday 18th April - Kyoto Began at the Fushini Inari shrine (the one with thousands of torii gates). You can hike up to the top and back down in under an hour, but there’s lots of little side paths to wander down - we budgeted for 3 hours and still didn’t see everything. There’s a free audio guide online in multiple languages which is quite good. Quickly visited Sanjusangen-do temple (the one with 1001 statues of the deity Kannon) afterwards which I would highly recommend, my favourite of all the temples I saw. Couldn’t take photos of the inside, but here it is - . In the afternoon we did a free walking tour (Kyoto Localised - obviously tips are expected, please do). I thought the guide was very good and made it entertaining as well as informative, a lot of the time tour guides can be very dry. In the evening, a sushi making class, and then rushed to Kodai-ji temple to see the illuminations before they closed.

Friday 19th April - Kyoto (Arashiyama) Got up early to get to the bamboo forest before it got too crowded. Have no idea why it’s so famous - I saw several bamboo forests on the trip (including at Fushini Inari), it’s not particularly big and you can only go on the paths - but there is at least some other stuff in the area worth seeing. Hiked up to the top of the hill, then down to the river to sit with our feet in for a while. Had a really strange encounter with some schoolgirls who wanted a picture with us, then went to Tenryu-ji temple. We took the scenic railway (romancecar) back to Kyoto - this is great, try to sit on the right hand side if you can. Rushed up the hill to catch the sunset from Kiyomizu temple. There’s a swanky hotel nearby with a rooftop bar that has a gorgeous view of Ky…

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