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The original was posted on /r/japantravel by /u/kakashirokudaime on 2024-08-09 03:36:32+00:00.

I wrote a post last year (May 2023) about traveling with our 10-month-old to Japan, we went back(Feb 2024) but this time we brought my mom!

A few notes

• My mom is 55 and in the fitness industry, she is very athletic so we had zero concerns about walking. She is also vegan (but flexible with fish while traveling) so it was tough, at times, to find a resturant that worked for all of us.
• We did portable wifi the first trip but this trip we went with the e-sim and it was so so much easier/better.
• We visited in February. Since we are from Southern California, we bought my son a waterproof one-piece snowsuit that he wore almost everyday. It was rainy and windy so I was happy knowing we could layer him up or down. It was also easy to pull off when we were indoors for an extended amount of time.
• We learned the first time that we needed to offer my son downtime and child-focused activities. I HIGHLY recommend practicing on-the-go naps ahead of time. My son is excellent at stroller naps because we practice before we travel.
• We stayed at the Mimaru chain last time and appreciated the size + amenities for children and opted to book it again.

Day Zero (aka the longest travel day ever)

• 6 am to 12 pm - My dad drove us from San Diego to LAX (the only direct flight from SD is with JAL). I booked business-class tickets on Singapore Air using points from American Express and Capital One. We checked out both the Centurian Lounge (better food) and Star Alliance (more space, less busy, better for toddler to run around outside).
• 1 pm - Boarded and take off. I called 6 months in advance to ensure we would get the bulkhead seats. They are massive, and so worth it when traveling with a lap child. There were at least 10 other kids in business which was surprising since last year on our JAL business class flight, my son was the only one. The 6 year behind us was a bit feral.
• 5 pm (Japan time) - After an 11-hour flight we landed feeling excited. Despite many people saying it was a bad idea on Reddit, we were headed to Kyoto the same night.
• 8:30 pm - Shinkansen to Kyoto from Tokyo Station(booked on smart ex a month in advance).
• 11 pm - checked into Mimaru Suites Kyoto. We opted for this location because it was close to the metro and offered a 2-bedroom suite at a reasonable price.

Day 1 - Kyoto

• 6:50 am - called an Uber to get to Kiyomizu-dera. We used Uber a lot in Kyoto since it was so cold and it was easier with a stroller. The cost was low when splitting it between multiple people.
• 7:30 am - the shops leading up to the temple are closed early in the morning so we enjoyed the peace and wandered around the temple. Not very stroller friendly but still happy we brought it.
• 9:30am - We made our way to Sannenzaka (a traditional shopping zone) and then to the famous Starbucks Kyoto Nineizaka Yasaka Chaya. Tbh, you won’t get a seat but considering everything else will be closed at this time, it’s worth it for the caffeine.
• 10am - After walking down Nene-no-michi we stopped at Maruyama Park and Yasaka Shrine so my son could get some wiggles out.
• 11 am - Omen Udon for lunch. Lots of options + vegan-friendly + toddler-friendly (high chair). It was a great first meal. Highly recommend arriving 10-15 min before opening to get the first seating
• Afternoon - spent 90 minutes trying to get my son down for a nap (it was a team effort). He was overtired and jet-lagged, fighting hard against his internal clock. We all were really struggling with jet lag at this point. My husband opted to nap while my mom and I walked over to the Ace Hotel to get a coffee at Stumptown. Listen, I judge myself for going to American brands abroad but it was the closest coffee shop to us that wasn’t a Starbucks. The latte I got was…no joke…the best latte I have ever had.
• Evening - The jet lag battle was brutal so we headed off to Aeon mall next to Kyoto station to try to find some toddler-specific activities that The Tokyo Chapter recommended. Ended up finding a random conveyor belt sushi place to try out, they had a booster seat for my son, it was good enough for us to leave happy but not impressed.

Day 2 - Kyoto (aka when we start rotating who is sick)

• Morning - The original goal was to use jetlag to our advantage and head to Fushimi Inari around 6 am. However, my husband woke up with a migraine and didn’t want to miss out on seeing such a cool shrine. The morning started going downhill when my mom, son, and I headed to a coffee shop that had the wrong hours on Google Maps. Then we started walking to the Kyoto Imperial Palace, only for the rain to start coming down in sheets. When we arrived, the grounds were all gravel (and wet) and the stroller wheels weren’t strong enough to traverse it. On a whim, we headed over to Heian Shrine. I don’t think a lot of people go there but we ended up loving it.
• Afternoon - Dropped off my son with my husband for nap time before going to Sushizen for lunch with my mom (soooooo good). Got on a bus to head to our tea ceremony. I initially booked one of those geisha tea ceremonies but the reviews turned me off when folks mentioned that it’s mostly people asking the geisha random questions. Ours was accidently private aka no one else booked it and INCREDIBLE. Seriously one of our top experiences of the trip. It was next to Daitoku-ji so we spent some time walking around there after.
• Late Afternoon - My mom needed some rest so she took over watching our toddler while my husband and I went to Nijo Castle. Another highlight for me, the afternoon really made up for the chaotic morning.
• Evening - 7:30pm res at Vegan Ramen UZU. I was a little doubtful based on some of the reviews but I wanted to take my mom somewhere that she could have anything on the menu + celebrate her birthday. This place was so good! I loved my ramen and would rank it high on my list of places we ate at.

Day 3 - Osaka (reality of traveling with a toddler)

• Morning - Travel guides saying that Osaka and Kyoto are 15mins away are lying or are talking about just going between Kyoto Station and Shin Osaka. It took us 2 hours (honestly I knew that ahead of time) to get to the Osaka Aquarium. Our 11 am reservation was cut short after 20 minutes when it was clear my son needed a nap. Luckily, you have access to the aquarium all day after checking in. After wailing like a tiny maniac along the waterfront, he finally fell asleep in the stroller. In the past, he has not slept longer than 90 minutes in the stroller. For some reason, today was the day that he slept close to 3 hours.
• Afternoon - Not wanting to go through the aquarium without my son, we took turns going on the Osaka Ferris wheel. We shopped around the little mall but it was very underwhelming. We were stuck mostly inside due to the crazy rain. Finally, when he woke up, we went through the aquarium. We really loved it, the whale sharks were so beautiful. Don’t stop at the first viewing point, there are at least 20 spots to view the whale sharks that are less busy. We also lost the diaper bag at some point (jeeez) but the customer service was so friendly and helped us find it (my mom was so upset cause she thought it was her fault).
• Evening - We should have gone home but instead we took an Uber to Dotonbori around 6 pm. Honestly, I shouldn’t have pushed the group. The combination of a toddler, vegan, and insane rain made this so unpleasant. We went home after 45 min. I have high hopes for Osaka if we go in the future but this day had a lot of challenges.

Day 4 - Kyoto (Arashiyama, my favorite day)

• 8 am - Uber dropped us off at Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple right as they were opening up. Our favorite temple, felt very spiritual. We left our stroller at the entrance and either carried my son or let him wander around. Most people took the bus straight to the Bambook Forest but I wanted to really enjoy Arashiyama so we took a small path past Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple to Saga Toriimoto Perserved Street. The walk was so serene, highly recommend it.
• 9:48 am - We finally arrive at the Bamboo Forest. We are not a family that chases instragramable locations so I knew going here at the crack of dawn wasn’t worth it to us. We took about 10 mins to take pics and walk through. It is very small, if this is the only thing you do in Arashiyama, you are missing out.
• 10 am - Entry into Tenryu-Ji. My husband and I traded off getting 20 minutes of exploration due to the gravel and number of steps not being stroller-friendly. Just sitting at the temple was pleasant so it wasn’t a hardship on the person doing the baby watching.
• 11:30 am - Lunch time! I sent my mom to the gardens to enjoy a traditional Buddhist meal (vegan + booked a few months in advance) while my husband and I headed over to Itsukichaya. The set meal was beautiful and so delicious. It’s a quiet space so we put zootopia on mute for my son to watch. They didn’t have high chairs but he did fine in a normal seat. They also offered him rice and steamed eggs free of charge. Highly recommend. After we met back up at %Arabica, I ordered the Kyoto Latte which was not worth the 45 min wait.
• Nap Time - Honestly, we came to all enjoy these mid-day breaks. My mom was feeling sick so she stayed home for the rest of the day.
• 2 pm - We reserved time at a free indoor play center (they ask for no promotion so if you are interested DM me for details). Lots of wo…

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