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The original was posted on /r/japantravel by /u/Fudwick on 2024-12-10 21:13:27+00:00.


Hi everyone, I wanted to post a trip report from our second time to Japan. We went in November for three weeks and basically followed the foliage throughout our trip. In general, we’re pretty aggressive with our trips and usually wake up on the earlier side and crash by 9 or 10pm. We’re not night owls or party people.

Day 1: 11/6: Arrival into Tokyo

We arrived in Tokyo, picked up our JR Pass, checked into our hotel. Went to go see Tokyo tower at night, get some food, then crashed.

Day 2: 11/7: Tokyo to Sapporo

We activated our 7-day JR pass here and started our travel day up to Sapporo. We took the Shinkansen to Hakodate, then the limited express to Sapporo. Our train left at 6:30ish in the morning and we got to Sapporo around 2:00pm. Since we were coming from the US, the early morning was perfect and this allowed us to rest the whole way. We sprung for the green car pass as well so it was nice and we didn’t have to navigate another airport while still getting the afternoon/evening in Sapporo. It started snowing about halfway on the limited express train and was beautiful to watch from the train. We explored Sapporo station area on arrival then checked into our hotel at 3pm. We explored shops around Sapporo and had miso ramen, which was the best ramen we’ve ever had.

Day 3: 11/8 Sapporo

We woke up, got some delicious coffee at “Love Espresso”, then went up the Sapporo TV Tower (worth it) then went to the old Sapporo factory mall, then the Sapporo museum and beer garden. Got Genghis Khan at the beer garden right when they opened at 11:30 am. You do have to get a reservation ticket from the museum but if you’re early there won’t be a problem. We then went back to the room to rest for a bit and catch a second wind before heading out shopping, exploring, and visiting the arcade. That night we had Yakitori near Odori park before calling it a night.

Day 4: 11/9 Sapporo to Hakodate

We woke up early and headed over to Hokkaido University. We like exploring college campuses when we travel and this was a nice one! There is a street lined with Ginko trees that was very pretty as well. We then checked out and hit up a street market for Oysters and a Salmon bowl (both some of the best seafood we had the entire trip). We took the limited express to Hakodate and got in around 5pm. We went out for sushi then walked around the red-brick storehouse district which had christmas lights and was quite pretty. Unfortunately our plan to go up to the top of Mt. Hakodate was squashed as the gondola was not working and could only be reached by private car or hiking, which we did not have time for. We called it a night after walking around a bit.

Day 5: 11/10: Hakodate to Hirosaki

We got up early in Hakodate and got a taxi to Cape Tachimachi to see the sunrise. Beautiful spot and made Hakodate feel worth it. We then got a Taxi to the old Public Hall and walked through the historic district back to the fish market where we had breakfast. Then we took the train to Hakodate Station and caught a 9:30 ish shinkansen to Shin Aomori. We then took a local train to Hirosaki and then dropped our bags off at the hotel since we were there a few hours before check-in. We went to the Roman Tea room for lunch (recommend) and then explored the Castle and two botanical gardens. Unplanned but it was the last day of their fall festival which was so fun to join. The leaves here were at peak and I got some amazing photographs this day. After that we made our way back to our hotel but got stopped by a Fuji worshiping cult. We didn’t go with them like they wanted but that was a notable experience lol. We did laundry this night at our hotel.

Day 6: 11/11: Hirosaki to Aomori to Morioka

Woke up early and explored the castle grounds again, then got coffee and breakfast at a little mom-and-pop place before checking out and catching a limited express train to Aomori. We only stayed in Aomori for an hour or so to do the Nebuta Museum and A-Factory. We planned on longer but got bored and decided to make our way to Morioka earlier (good call). Took the train to Morioka and checked into our hotel on arrival. Got Morioka Jajamen for lunch then went to the castle ruins and walked around before heading back to the room for a quick recharge. Then went out shopping and dinner at an Izakaya.

Day 7: 11/12: Morioka to Kakunodate

Spent the morning in Morioka and walked to Hoonji Temple. Got an early lunch at Karakoma (vegan place that was VERY good). Then took the train to Kakunodate. We booked an old Samurai warehouse that was turned into a little townhouse. It was huge and worth the experience. We walked around the village, got ramen for dinner, and called it earlier to recharge and enjoy our fancy accommodations.

Day 8: 11/13: Kakunodate to Sendai to Toyama

Last day of our JR pass so we made alot of use of it! Explored Kakunodate again in the morning then got the train to Sendai. We gave ourselves about 5 hours in Sendai so we got soybean milkshakes and went to the Zuihōden grave / temple area. Very pretty. Had lunch at an Izakaya that had lunch specials near the station. Got some taiyaki and shopped for a bit. Then got the train to the outskirts of Tokyo to transfer and go to Toyama. Checked into our hotel in Toyama and went out for Sushi (Toyama is famous for it).

Day 9: 11/14: Toyama to Takayama

Woke up early and explored Toyama. Went up the observation tower and visited the glass art museum (cheap and in a beautiful building/library). Then went to the Japanese sword museum and had Sushi again for lunch. Got our bags and headed by train to Takayama. For the first time in our trip we felt like we were in a tourist town and it was a bit of a shock lol, we adjusted (we’re also tourists afterall). We went to both the retro museums and had dinner a bit off the beaten path and it was very very tasty.

Day 10: 11/15: Takayama

Woke up early and walked to Hida no Sato open air museum. Highly recommend if you’re not going to Shinagawa-go like we were not. There is a wood carver there off to the side where you can see him at work and buy his goods. I got an owl and it is probably my most treasured souvenir from Japan. We walked back to our hotel and stopped to get some sweets and hit up the grocery store on the way. Then we went to lunch at Wabisuki (best soba I’ve had and I keep thinking about the duck soup I had). Then walked to Hie Shrine (another amazing fall foliage spot) and walked through the big park complex nature path area nearby to get back to the historic district. Hit up the sake brewery then went back to the room to finish up laundry and rest for a couple of hours. Went out for Takoyaki since most other places needed a reservation on a Friday night. Not disappointed though, the guy making them was from Osaka and was very friendly.

Day 11: 11/16: Takayama to Fukuji Onsen (Ryokan)

Slept in… whattttt. We were tired and the next day or so was about rest so we slept in a bit, got coffee and breakfast, then took the bus out to Fukuji Onsen where our Ryokan was located. Enjoyed the night there, had A5 Hida beef, did Ryokan things and called it a night.

Day 12: 11/17: Fukuji Onsen to Takayama to Nagoya

Woke up and had breakfast at the Ryokan, then took the bus to Takayama where we killed a few hours at a matcha shop and our favorite grocery store. Took the train to Nagoya and then checked into our hotel. Walked around Odori Park and went up the Electric tower (eh, ok to skip). Went out for udon then walked around and enjoyed the Christmas decor and shopped a bit before crashing for the night

Day 13: 11/18 Nagoya/Ghibli Park

We got Ghibli park tickets so that ate up most of the day. We got Unagi for dinner and purchased limited express tickets for the next day to Nagiso.

Day 14: 11/19 Nakasendo Trail day tripfrom Nagoya

We did the Nakasendo Trail this day but did it backwards from what most people do so it was mostly uphill. We walked from Nagiso, through Tsumago, then ended in Magome. Great hike, loved it, got soba for lunch in Tsumago. After getting back in Nagoya we did some laundry and went out for Yakitori.

Day 15: 11/20 Nagoya to Tokyo

This was our travel day from Nagoya to Tokyo so we checked out of our hotel and got a locker for our bags in Nagoya station. We then went to go explore Nagoya castle and the palace and got a healthy vegan lunch before catching the train to Tokyo. We stayed in the Nihonbashi area of Tokyo, it was quiet and the hotel was nice but a bit of a walk to the station. I definitely recommend being 5 minutes or less not 10 like we were from your closest station. It just added time when you want to be bouncing around. That night we went to Skytree to do tourist things and went to the aquarium. Had a burger because my system needed some western food at that point.

Days 16-21: Tokyo

Days 16-21 were in Tokyo. I won’t go into extensive detail here as this was mostly exploring different parts, going shopping, and having fun. My favorite places are Akihabara and Naka-meguro. Most overrated i think was Korea town, honestly feel like we have way better Korean food back in the states. I found that with the Vietnamese we tried as well. Japanese food in Japan is legit the best but I’d never tried international food internationally (if that makes sense) before and was kinda disappointed.

Day 21: 11/26

Last day with a late flight out of Tokyo so we explored the city in the morning before getting to the airport

Take a…


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