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The original was posted on /r/japantravel by /u/Psychological_Goal55 on 2025-10-06 18:47:41+00:00.


Just got back from 4 weeks in Japan - spent a few days in Tokyo at each end, and most of the trip around the Northern Alps. Sharing my itinerary (excluding Tokyo since that has been well covered) in case the information is useful to anyone. Apologise in advance if I had recalled any facts wrongly. Note: I used Claude to help me clean up parts of this post.

Who this is for: People who like smaller cities, hiking, nature, and enjoy some camping. Not super budget (went for comfort where cost was manageable) but not luxury either.

Who this isn’t for:

  • Travellers on a tight trip - sections might work but probably not the whole itinerary, and weather in the mountains can be unpredictable
  • Travellers on a tight budget - transport to these popular mountain destinations are slightly pricey

Some highlights in short clips (only halfway done sorting through the photos): https://www.instagram.com/s/aGlnaGxpZ2h0OjE4MDk4OTYyNTI4NjUyNDU4

Quick Stats:

  • Dates: September 2-23, 2024
  • Budget: ¥237,576 (~$1,600 USD) excluding flights
  • Accommodation: Mix of camping, guesthouses, and mid-range hotels

Matsumoto (5 Days)

Getting there: Hourly buses from Shinjuku, no advance booking needed.

Good city to ease into the trip. Plenty of day trip options, and the pace is relaxed. The old merchant streets (Nawate-dori and Nakamachi-dori) are nice to walk around and less crowded than Takayama.

Where I stayed: Hotel M Matsumoto - Capsule-style with private cabins, clean, right next to the bus terminal. Has a communal hot bath. Many cabins share one large room with no dividers, so if anyone snores you’ll definitely hear it.

What I did:

  • Matsumoto Castle - One of the few original keeps in Japan, over 400 years old
  • Day trip to Naraijuku - Historic Edo-period post town (50 min by train)
  • Day trip to Azumino - Cycling through rice fields, Daio Wasabi Farm, Hotaka Shrine (30 min by train)
  • Obasute Station - Worth the trip just for the view (40 min by train)
  • Yayoi Kusama exhibition at City Museum of Art - Small permanent collection since she’s from Matsumoto

Food:

  • Miyota for toji soba
  • Karaage Center for sanzoku-yaki (local fried chicken)
  • Coffee Bigaku Abe for old-school coffee

Notes:

  • Kojitsusanso outdoor gear shop at Alpico Plaza if you need camping gear
  • Other day trip options: Norikura, Magome/Tsumago

Kamikochi (3 Days)

This is what got me started planning the whole trip. Kamikochi is a valley in the Northern Alps with crystal-clear rivers and accessible hiking.

Getting there: Direct bus from Matsumoto requires advance booking online. There’s also a train + bus combo you can book on the day of travel but they get crowded too.

Camping: Konashidaira Campsite, 15 min walk from the bus terminal. Good views if you get a site near the river. No reservations needed if you bring your own tent.

Facilities: Restaurant and store on-site with reasonable prices. More options at Kappabashi and other campsites. Communal hot bath available for ¥700 for guests (slightly more for non-guests). Basic toilets. Most toilets in Kamikochi request a small donation except at your accommodation.

What I hiked:

  • Day 1: Tashiro Marsh → Tashiro Pond → Taisho Pond
  • Day 2: Full day loop to Myojin → Furuike → Tokusawa → Yokoo, then back via Myojin Bridge to see Myojin Ponds and Dakesawa Marsh. Mostly flat.
  • Day 3: Took it easy, chilled by the river and walked to Kappabashi and Dakesawa Marsh again

Good to know:

  • My favourite views were from Konashidaira Campsite and Dakesawa Marsh
  • Lots of bear warnings - I didn’t see any, but do take precautions seriously
  • For those more ambitious than me, Karasawa Campsite further beyond Yokoo looked like a popular spot with great views
  • Hotels and cabins are also available at Kamikochi

Hirayu Onsen (1 Day)

Short bus ride from Kamikochi. Small hot spring village with a nice waterfall, some small attractions, and public foot baths.

Where I stayed: Hirayukan - Most expensive night of the trip but worth it. Indoor and outdoor baths in 2 sections that switch between men’s/women’s during the stay so everyone experiences both. Breakfast and dinner were delicious buffets.

What I did:

  • Hirayu Waterfall - Beautiful waterfall, 30-min walk from the bus terminal
  • Skipped Shinhotaka Ropeway (first double-decker cable car in Japan) due to cloudy weather, enjoyed the ryokan onsens instead

It is also possible to use Hirayu as a base to visit Kamikochi and Norikura.

Takayama (2 Days)

Beautifully preserved old town, lots of international tourists. Being in the Hida region, there’s great food - Hida beef, hoba miso, local apples, milk and more.

Where I stayed: Cup of Tea Guesthouse - Affordable capsule-style dorms, small but clean.

What I did:

  • Takayama Jinya - Historic government building
  • Sanmachi Suji + sake tasting at Harada brewery (¥450 for a cup, self-pour from a dozen bottles). It was chaotic with everyone crowding around. I barely got through half since I don’t drink much.
  • Morning markets (Jinya-mae and Miyagawa) - Smaller than expected but good vibes
  • Takayama Matsuri Yatai Kaikan - Festival float museum with Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine next door. The floats are huge and intricately decorated.
  • Sakurayama Nikkokan - Scale models of famous shrines (same ticket as floats)
  • Takayama Shōwa-kan Museum - Retro museum to take you back in time

Toyama (2 Days)

From mountains to coast. I liked that it was a little quieter than Takayama.

Where I stayed: T-Port. T-Port is a collection of rental apartments in an apartment building, operated by a lovely old couple. The apartment was slightly old but clean and well equipped. I had a comfortable stay there.

What I did:

  • Kansui Park - Modern waterfront
  • Glass Art Museum - Building by Kengo Kuma, Dale Chihuly permanent exhibition and beautiful glass art by various artists
  • City Hall observation deck (free) - Great views of city and mountains. Went day and night.
  • Toyama Prefectural Museum - The Onomatopoeia Rooftop Playground (free) was cool
  • Iwase - Beach with observation deck (free) and historic street. Observation deck was hot with no ventilation but good views.
  • White shrimp and firefly squid - Had them as sashimi at Rotate Toyama Sushi near the station. One of my pricier dinners but worth it. Also got tempura versions from Shiroebi-tei at the station.
  • Toyama Black Ramen at Isshin
  • Toyama Castle gardens (skipped inside - it’s a reconstruction with Japanese-only signage)

Tateyama (1 Day)

And back to the mountains. Stayed here to visit Shomyo Falls and start the Alpine Route early. The local train from Toyama was scenic.

Where I stayed: Locomotion Coffee and Bed - Pricier capsule but new, well-designed, spacious. Small communal hot bath.

What I did:

  • Tateyama Caldera Sabo Museum (free) - Didn’t know about this beforehand but it was interesting - interactive exhibits about erosion control
  • Shomyo Falls (free, bus ¥500 each way) - 15-min bus + 30-min walk each way. Last bus departs Shomyo at 4:40pm so confirm timings before going up

Food: Everything closes by dinner. Locomotion requires pre-booking dinner, no convenience stores nearby. They provide a microwave and hot water if you bring your own food.

Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route (2 Days)

This is the famous mountain crossing with cable cars, funiculars, and buses. Most people come for the snow walls in spring. No snow in September, but the hiking and views were great.

What I did:

  • Funicular to Bijodaira → cedar forest hike
  • Bus to Midagahara → wetlands hike
  • Bus to Murodo → hiked to Raichosawa Campsite, explored ponds and viewpoints around Murodo (night at Raichosawa Campsite)
  • Next day (all transport connections, minimal walking except at Kurobe Dam): Murodo → Daikanbo → Kurobe-daira → Kurobeko → Kurobe Dam → Ogizawa → Hakuba

Camping at Raichosawa (2,450m): Getting to the campsite was not difficult but also not an effortless walk if you have a fully loaded backpack - about 1 hour from Murodo with steep stairs right before camp. ¥1,000/person/night. Toilets and running water, no showers. Nearby huts have day-use onsen for ¥1,000. I went to Lodge Tateyama (Raichosawa Hutte’s onsen appeared closed). Lodge was small and run-down with a dirty and unused outdoor tub. Interesting experience but might not be for everyone.

After setting up, I hiked to Chinoike (Blood Pond), Mikuriga-ike, Midoriga Pond and other viewpoints of the mountains and valleys - all on paved paths, about 2-3 hours total. Perfect weather on the first day, but it poured overnight and was foggy in the morning. Raichosawa Campsite is also a starting point for various summit hikes, for those more prepared and adventurous. There were also bear warnings at Murodo.

Tickets:

  • Buy whole route (Tateyama to Ogizawa) or individual legs
  • Easy to purchase online
  • 10% discount booking 1+ month ahead (2025)
  • Valid 5 days from start - you only pick timing for first leg
  • Can buy day of travel but allow flexibility
  • Hotels available between Murodo and Midagahara (pricey)

Transit notes: Stops between Murodo and Ogizawa are quick (mostly viewpoints). Kurobe Dam takes longest - you walk across with viewpoints…


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